Sarah Rushing Doss spearing a lionfish.
Image provided by Sara Rushing Doss.
Fiery-red lionfish. Leafy-green kudzu. Silver-scaled Asian carp. Just by looking at them, these species don’t appear to have much in common, but they share one key trait. They are all highly invasive species that pose a threat to their surroundings due to their destructive and prolific nature. Several strategies have been used to combat them including chemical controls and physical removal, but some are taking a more novel approach: eating them. Some daring chefs have started to add invasive species to their menus to mitigate their impact on the environment.
This movement to add invasive species to menus has been gaining popularity. At Miya’s Sushi in Connecticut, the menu features dishes with a variety of invasive species, including miso soup with the uncontrollable Japanese knotweed and sashimi made of the insatiable Asian carp. In Vermont, the menu of Juniper Bar and Restaurant features ingredients like Bishop’s weed, notorious for its tendency to smother trees, and European green crabs, known for their destructive effects on softshell clam populations.
Some chefs in Wilmington are also starting to embrace this “eat them to beat them” philosophy. One of the major threats to North Carolina’s coastal ecosystems is lionfish, an aquatic species whose lack of natural predators and voracious appetite is a cause for great concern. Lionfish adversely affect food webs by outcompeting commercially important species like grouper and snapper and place heavy stress on coral reefs. The owners of Rx Chicken and Oysters have decided to take matters into their own hands.
Rx is a local restaurant located in downtown Wilmington that has been on hiatus for the last several months to change the direction of the restaurant and become more eco-friendly. Its commitment to sustainability is admirable, as even before the hiatus, it made sure to source produce from local farmers and compost food waste. It is still continuing these sustainable practices, but one of the most notable new changes is the incorporation of lionfish into the menu. This article features an interview with Sarah Rushing-Doss, one of the co-owners of Rx, who will share more about Rx’s mission, the sustainable reimagining of the restaurant, and the process of sourcing and adding lionfish to the menu.
Can you tell me a little bit about yourself and the founding of RX?
My husband James founded Rx in 2012. James is a self-taught chef and an eastern N.C. native.
The restaurant has been on hiatus in order to change the direction of the restaurant. What are some of these changes and what inspired you to make them?
James and I had discussed making some significant changes to Rx for several years before we actually did, and Covid really kickstarted that process. We did a lot of soul-searching during that time and really dialed in what we wanted for the future. A big part of that was a continued commitment to sustainability as well as quality of life. We wanted to spend more time outside, have more fun with our menu and concept, and have a positive impact on the environment. We are working to develop our Rx seafood operation and started farming oysters and clams in the summer of 2022. We’re also spearfishing for the restaurant with a focus on lionfish. Oysters filter 50 gallons of water per day, and by targeting lionfish we are doing our part to reduce the impact of an invasive species on our ecosystem.
On your website, one of the major ways RX is evolving is the inclusion of lionfish on your menu, which is a notoriously invasive species. Can you tell me about the process of sourcing lionfish?
Yes, James and I spear the fish ourselves. Lionfish do not bite a hook and line. NOAA is working to develop a trap for the fish, but right now, spearing the fish individually is the most effective method. In our area, you can find lionfish starting at about 95 feet and deeper. Since their spines are venomous, we have to use special gear including a container to hold the speared fish to protect ourselves from the venom. Lionfish are perfectly safe to eat and their spines are no longer venomous after about 30 minutes in the cooler.
What has the process of incorporating it into the menu been like? How have people reacted to the idea of eating lionfish?
There has been a lot of interest in lionfish, and we hope to continue to educate folks about them. Many Rx fans are eager to try it, as it’s not typically found on many menus. James has been working hard on recipe development, which has been a fun process. Lionfish are delicious and so versatile - they’re good as sashimi, ceviche, fried, grilled, pan-seared, smoked, etc.
Have there been any challenges or regulatory hurdles you’ve had to overcome?
Yes, there are many challenges in learning a new industry and new skills. We’ve been fortunate to have some great mentors and resources. With farming and fishing, you’re subject to environmental conditions that are always changing, and sometimes areas close for harvesting due to rain. Commercial fishing licenses through the state and federal governments are both challenging to navigate and acquire. We now must report weekly to several regulatory agencies. Equipment and boat maintenance can present additional challenges.
Is there anything that you’ve accomplished in this journey that you’re particularly proud of?
Yes, we’re proud that we’ve managed to work hard to add two different components to our business - spearfishing and shellfish farming - that we had limited knowledge about just a couple of years ago.
Is there anything else you’d like to add?
Even though the menu is changing to a more static one, we are still holding ourselves to the same standards in our sourcing of local and organic food, composting food waste, and keeping our entire business model focused on sustainability.
And finally, for fans of RX like myself, are you able to share when the restaurant will be coming back?
We’re planning on an early December reopening. We still have a few loose ends with construction and need to finish hiring and training staff.
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